Fabric Yardage Calculator
Calculate the total yardage of fabric to buy for a sewing project based on project dimensions and fabric bolt width. Use it before purchasing to avoid running short mid-project or over-buying expensive fabric.
Last updated: May 2026
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About this calculator
The formula is: yardage = (length × width) / fabricWidth / 36, where length and width are project dimensions in inches and fabricWidth is the fabric bolt width in inches; the /36 converts inches to yards. The first division (length × width) / fabricWidth gives the linear inches of fabric needed when laid out at the bolt's width; divide by 36 to express in yards. Standard fabric bolt widths: quilting cotton 42–44 inches (the most common width — often quoted as "44/45 inch"); apparel fabrics 54–60 inches; home decor 54 inches; wide quilting backs 108 inches (king-size quilt backing without piecing); fine wool suiting 60 inches. Edge cases: zero fabric width causes division by zero; very wide projects on narrow fabric produce results that require piecing (joining multiple strips). The formula assumes a single rectangle of fabric with no pattern matching, no pattern direction restrictions, and no shrinkage. Real-world yardage adjustments add 10–25% for: pattern repeats (especially striped or directional prints); fabric shrinkage (most cottons shrink 3–10% in first wash, wools 5–15%); cutting layout efficiency (curved garment pieces leave triangular scrap); pattern matching across seams; extras for "what if" cuts and color choices. Professional dressmaking patterns specify required yardage at each common bolt width on the back of the envelope; for non-pattern projects (curtains, quilts, simple shapes), calculate from rectangle math then add a buffer. Always pre-wash fabric you plan to also pre-wash garment-wise; otherwise it will shrink and pull seams after the first wash, ruining the fit.
How to use
Example 1 — Simple curtain panels. Two panels each 84 inches long × 36 inches wide; fabric is 54 inches wide. Total cut area = 84 × 36 × 2 panels = 6,048 sq inches. Enter length 168 (combined length of both panels laid end to end) and width 36, fabricWidth 54. Result: (168 × 36) / 54 / 36 = 6,048 / 1,944 ≈ 3.11 yards. ✓ Order 3.5–4 yards to allow for shrinkage, hem allowance, and a "just in case" extra. For pattern-matched fabric (stripes, large floral), add another 0.5 yard for pattern repeat across the two panels. Example 2 — Apron from quilting cotton. Apron pattern requires a 36-inch length × 28-inch width main panel; quilting cotton at 44-inch bolt width. Enter length 36, width 28, fabricWidth 44. Result: (36 × 28) / 44 / 36 = 1,008 / 1,584 ≈ 0.64 yards. ✓ Round up to 3/4 yard or 1 yard for hem allowance, ties, and minor errors. For aprons with pockets, waist ties, and neck strap, total yardage is usually 1.25–1.75 yards on 44-inch quilting cotton; check the pattern envelope rather than relying purely on the main-panel calculation.
Frequently asked questions
How much extra fabric should I buy beyond the calculation?
Depends on fabric, pattern, and project type. Quilting cotton at 44 inches with no directional print: add 10% for shrinkage and minor cutting errors. Apparel fabric with no pattern: add 15% for cutting layout inefficiency (curved pattern pieces waste fabric). Directional or large-print fabric (stripes, plaid, large florals, one-way prints): add 25–50% to allow pattern matching across seams. Pile fabrics (velvet, corduroy, faux fur): add 20% — all pieces must be cut in the same nap direction, reducing layout efficiency. Expensive fabric (silk, fine wool, designer prints): add 10–15% extra and buy from one bolt at one time, because dye lots vary between bolts and re-ordering may produce a noticeable color mismatch. For first attempts at a new pattern, buy extra fabric so a mistake does not derail the project. For repeated patterns (you have made the dress before), trust the pattern's required yardage; the designer has worked out efficient layout.
Do I need to account for shrinkage and pre-washing?
Yes, almost always for garments. Most cotton shrinks 3–10% in the first wash; linen 5–10%; rayon and viscose 5–15%; wool 5–15% (or felts entirely in hot water); polyester and acrylics typically <2%. If you sew a garment without pre-washing the fabric, the first wash post-construction will shrink the fabric, often unevenly, and the seams will pucker. Pre-wash by laundering exactly as you will launder the finished garment (same water temperature, detergent type, drying method). For quilts: many quilters do not pre-wash so the finished quilt crinkles attractively after first wash; others always pre-wash to avoid color bleeding. For interfacing and lining, follow the specific product care. For home decor (curtains, upholstery), pre-washing is optional because the item is rarely washed; instead, dry-clean if needed. Buy 10% extra fabric to compensate for shrinkage if pre-washing — the calculated yardage assumes no shrinkage applied to the final cut pieces.
How does directional fabric change yardage requirements?
Significantly. "Directional" means the fabric has a nap (raised fibers oriented one way — velvet, corduroy, faux fur), a pile (cut loops creating texture — terry, fleece), or a print with up/down orientation (animals facing one direction, text, asymmetric florals, scenes). All pieces of a garment must be cut in the same direction for visual consistency; cutting upside-down pieces produces a different shade or visible texture mismatch. This means you cannot rotate pieces 180° on the cutting layout for efficient nesting, dramatically increasing required yardage — often 20–40% more than non-directional. The standard pattern envelope publishes two yardage requirements: "without nap" and "with nap" — use "with nap" for any directional fabric to be safe. For stripes and plaids: add 0.5–1 yard for pattern matching across all major seams; horizontal stripes must align across side seams, vertical stripes across center fronts and backs, plaid both directions. Always lay out the pattern pieces on the bolt before cutting to verify everything fits and pattern matches will work.
What are the most common fabric yardage mistakes?
The biggest is buying the bare minimum and discovering a cutting error or missed pattern matching mid-project; the fabric store may be out of stock, or worse, the dye lot has changed and a new bolt does not match. The second is ignoring fabric width and assuming the pattern's "with nap" yardage works for any width; a pattern designed for 60-inch fabric requires significantly more on 44-inch fabric. The third is not pre-washing fabric before cutting; first-wash shrinkage after construction ruins fit. The fourth is failing to account for directional prints; you may have enough fabric by yardage but not enough by layout because pieces cannot be rotated. The fifth is buying multiple cuts of "the same" fabric from different stores or different days at the same store; dye lot variations can be 5–15% different shade, visible across panels. The sixth is forgetting accessories — bias binding, contrast pockets, lining, interfacing — and running out on those after the main fabric is cut. The seventh is buying expensive fabric without making a muslin (mockup in cheap fabric) first; an expensive mistake on $40/yard silk is worse than a $4/yard muslin error. The eighth is misreading the bolt width — fabric stores sometimes mislabel; measure the bolt yourself before purchase if it matters.
When should I not use this calculator?
Skip it for garments where the published pattern provides specific yardage requirements at common bolt widths; the pattern designer's calculation includes seam allowances, pattern matching, layout efficiency, and "with nap" considerations the simple formula does not. It is the wrong tool for irregular shapes (free-form quilts with applique, organic-shape cushion covers, embroidered art panels) where simple rectangle math misses the actual fabric consumed. Do not use it for stretchy knit garments where pattern pieces are typically smaller than woven equivalents but require specific stretch direction; use a knit-pattern yardage chart. For tailored coats, suits, and lined garments, the lining and interfacing yardages are separate calculations from the shell fabric; do not lump them. For quilts, use a dedicated quilt-yardage calculator that accounts for block size, sashing, borders, binding, and backing; the generic formula is too simple. And for re-purposing existing fabric (curtains, sheets, vintage tablecloths), measure what you have and work backward — yardage math forward does not help.